I finally got some sleep last night, and what a spectacular night it was.  Truly breathtaking.  Today we didn’t get on the trail until 11:00 or so.  I felt pretty good physically, or at least I thought I did.  It actually turned out to be the hardest day yet.  My spirits were low and just got lower as the miles ticked by.  The trail was unbelievably muddy and poorly maintained.  I didn’t have my legs under me at all, which made for very slow going.

I don't know what freak of environmental conditions were at play here...  but this section of the trail was INFESTED with Spiders.  I am not exaggerating when I say that every 10 to 20 steps there was a web strung across the trail - all too often about face high, and sometimes as big as a diner plate.  Walking through these things is unpleasant to say the least... and the spiders themselves range in size from that of a quarter to about a half-dollar.  I've never seen anything like it.  I took to swinging my poles frantically in front of me as I walked... and this combined with the poor condition of the trail to make for some miserable hiking.

Thankfully we decided to shorten this day and found ourselves at a perfect stopping point at West Lake.  Very similar to Spruce Lake - with loons already playing on the water, beautiful weather and some excellent boulders and opportunities to swim.

Jess

At West Lake we ran into another woman already at the lean-to.  She was a southbounder and I think we ran her out when we decided to stay there for the night.  She was bent on skinny dipping.  I don't feel too bad, as this is by far the best spot of the trip and a perfect swimming spot.

I find it amazing how every time I really begin to wallow and relish in my misery, I find myself in a place that makes me truly breathless.  I’ve never known such beauty and solitude and wildness, and now it’s all I ever want to know.

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